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Do you trust your mechanic?

NorthShoreBuck

True Madness Requires Significant Intelligence
We have had a few car threads on here before. Recently we had one on what you drive. In that thread I mentioned that I just took my truck in for the 90,000 mile service. I imagine many of you rely on your local mechanic or perhaps a national chain to service your vehicle. Do you trust them? Here is my story.

I will normally try to work on my truck but today you need a computer, special tools and and place to dispose of the fluids. The check engine light and anti lock brake lights were on at the dash in my truck. I knew the ABS did not work as I have felt it go out one day at low speed driving.

At the 90K service the garage, Tire Kingdom, put the vehicle through a battery of computer tests. They came back and told me the check engine light had codes 171 and 174 which meant I needed new oxygen sensors. They told me the ABS light was due to my front and back wheel speed sensors being out and possibly a sending unit on the brake system.

They wanted $450 to swap out the O2 sensors and $380 for rear and $400 for the front ABS system. Rather than pay I thought I would check out how bad these troubles were and see how much they affected my trucks operation.

I googled the error codes and on the first page I had found my answer. A check engine light has about 30 possible causes but the most likely are a dirty mass air flow sensor and a cracked elbow where the PVC system goes into the intake manifold. I bought some cable cleaner for the MAF and a $2.00 elbow for another make and model vehicle. Total cost $8.00. Total time to swap out the elbow and spray down the MAF 30 minutes.

I went to the local O'Reilly's part store and asked about the ABS codes. The young lady, who looked very much like a young man, did some searching and told me I only had rear ABS on my truck and that the sending unit would probably stop my brakes from working completely. So I bought the rear speed sensor unit for $6.99.

This weekend I crawled under my truck and swapped out the rear speed sensor unit which was very easy. I also swapped out my fuel filter which the garage wanted $24 for the filter and $45 for labor. I will not lie to you, changing the filter was a bitch. It was in a frame side rail and the retainer for the filter would not let go of the thing. I ended up taking the retainer off and ripping the old filter out. Going back together was easy. Total cost $6.99 for the fuel filter and $4.99 for the special tool. Time was about an hour and half although if I would have taken the damn retainer out earlier it would have been less than an hour.

You can do the math but I figure I easily saved myself over $1000 and actually found two incorrect problems that did not need fixed and that I may have been billed for anyway.

Now do you trust your mechanic? I know todays vehicles are very complex and that most of the people I see working on them are young. That still does not excuse the fact that they are selling high cost and possibly unnecessary service. They mark up their part anywhere from 300-500%.

I am very knowledagable about my company's P&L. We mark up hardware 20-30%.

I will end this with two other examples. On my 90K service they were supposed to rotate the tires and balance the wheels. My tires were very dirty and dusty and I could tell that the had not been touched. When I questioned then no one could say they had done the service. They hadn't and I made them enter into the computer that I would get a free one whenever I wanted. It is also on my receipt. I checked all the fluids and filters to make sure they had done what the said they were supposed to do.

The other story is on my wife's truck. Most Fords have a long serpentine belt that drives all the pulleys. Every time she would take her truck in for service they would tell her her serpentine belt had cracks and that she needed to replace it. I would look at it and see the small cracks and it did not look bad. Finally after about half of dozen of these episodes she had them change it. I do not remember the charge but the belt was marked up 300-400% and there was a one hour charge to change it.

The second time she took it in to get the oil changed they told her she needed to change out the serpentine belt. This all occurred at Firestone.

Sorry for the length but I sat there and listened to every customer at Tire Kingdom be told they needed new brakes. It is a racket and should be illegal.

Caveat Emptor!
 
Smart move searching for the problem codes over the internet. It seems regardless where you take your vehicle the are always upselling something. I always have the same experiences at service type locations, the problem is that most people accept the repairs. I find that they use they same sales approach on almost every customer at quick oil change locations.
I personally prefer to go to an AutoZone type location if my warning lights are on, it is a free service and they usually are not trying to gouge you on what they are selling. My manager took his vehicle to a Firestone location due to worning lights. When I picked him up I asked him if he got new tires, etc. Instead he paid $90 for the diagnosis of the warning lights. He wasn't too amused when I let him know you could definitely get it done for free. The body shop business is the same way. The nickel and dime insurance companies to death on things that aren't necessary, however ins. companies have much larger checkbooks. Deal with that crap every day. Nice work on your part...props!
 
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Car manufacturers have realized that the guys at Gillette are on to something. They don't make much on the cars but now make it on the after-sales service. So, no, I don't trust them, I always ask for a quote and I find that I can often save a fortune doing what I can myself.
 
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I trust my mechanic, Orvil. When my ABS light went on , I had him check it with his computer. The first time he checked it, it showed 5 different things wrong. He said "Don't worry about that, we'll re-set the computer and try it again. It will sometimes show false results".

After he re-set the computer, it showed nothing wrong.

He kept the car for a couple hours and discovered that 2 wires under the dash, that were supposed to have a protective piece between them, did not have tha piece, and eventually the wires rubbed together causing a short.

He fixed it and charged me 38 bucks for everything.

With all the computerized parts on the cars today, it's hard to do your own work. But, the biggest money bleeder on cars today is brakes and shocks. They charge so damn much to do something that is so simple.

Changing your own brakes is so simple that anyone can do it and it would only cost you 35 bucks, give or take. Take them to one of the national chains and you'll pay hundreds more.
 
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I spent 400 bucks on a bumper-to-bumper warranty on my 2002 F150. It covers all non-wear items up to 100K. I took my truck in a few weeks ago for new ball joints on the driver's side. It was covered and cost me the $50 deductible. They tried to sell me 2 new tires, which I do need, and a new air filter. I'll get the tires in February when I do the state inspection bullshit, and one quick trip to NAPA got the air filter and one of those sweet jumpstart battery packs.

Do I trust them? Not really. That's why I bought the warranty. In 50,000 miles I've had over 1500 dollars worth of work done for very little cost to me.
 
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i feel pretty good then about my (sorry, not trying to gloat here) purchase of a honda accord a few years ago. it recently broke 100k miles, and i've had absolutely nothing done but the regular upkeep of oil, brakes, tires, and so on. well, i had a sensor that needed replacing, but that was it. it's very nice not having to worry about how much longer the car will go without issues. i don't know nearly enough about cars, so having a very reliable car has likely saved me bundles of money.
 
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I had one mechanic back home I trusted. We were one of the original customers to their shop and the son was good friends with my Mom. My car once broke down in Columbus and I called my mechanic back in Akron to verify if what the guy was telling me was legit. He said it could be.

My Check Engine Soon light has been on 2 1/2 years now. After the first time it came on I took it to a local place. They could not find anything wrong with it so they just reset the thing. The total price was about $400, but I had a tune-up, new seat belt installed and a bunch of long neglected maintenance done, so the light was about $25. It came on a week after that and I have never done about it since, other than oil changes and rotating tires.
 
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My Check Engine Soon light has been on 2 1/2 years now. After the first time it came on I took it to a local place. They could not find anything wrong with it so they just reset the thing. The total price was about $400, but I had a tune-up, new seat belt installed and a bunch of long neglected maintenance done, so the light was about $25. It came on a week after that and I have never done about it since, other than oil changes and rotating tires.
generally the check engine light has to do with pollution control and, therefore, may not be that pressing. heck, the most common reason (i apologize if it's already been mentioned) for the check engine light coming on is a lack of pressure in the gas tank due to the gas cap not being fastened tight enough (three clicks). boy, mechanics make sooooooo much money by just turning the gas cap an extra click or two. there's nothing worse than feeling like a dumbass who's been swindled by such an easy fix.
 
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generally the check engine light has to do with pollution control and, therefore, may not be that pressing. heck, the most common reason (i apologize if it's already been mentioned) for the check engine light coming on is a lack of pressure in the gas tank due to the gas cap not being fastened tight enough (three clicks). boy, mechanics make sooooooo much money by just turning the gas cap an extra click or two. there's nothing worse than feeling like a dumbass who's been swindled by such an easy fix.

I never knew that. I'm pretty sure my cap only goes one click, but I'll double check it.
 
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I never knew that. I'm pretty sure my cap only goes one click, but I'll double check it.
i'm pretty sure that your auto manual will mention that you should check the gas cap if the check engine light is on. i know that the manual for post-1998 honda accords mentions that the gas cap needs to be tightened to, or even just beyond, three clicks.

yeah, i'm hardly surprised that it's commonly unknown that the gas cap is often a culprit for the check engine light. i could see someone taking the car into the mechanic, and the mechanic tightening the gas cap without telling the customer that such a simple task fixes the "problem." he'd probably go into some doublespeak, such as "the external rotator fastener to the combustible liquid basin was not properly engaged to the tri-snap position."
 
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i'm pretty sure that your auto manual will mention that you should check the gas cap if the check engine light is on. i know that the manual for post-1998 honda accords mentions that the gas cap needs to be tightened to, or even just beyond, three clicks.

yeah, i'm hardly surprised that it's commonly unknown that the gas cap is often a culprit for the check engine light. i could see someone taking the car into the mechanic, and the mechanic tightening the gas cap without telling the customer that such a simple task fixes the "problem." he'd probably go into some doublespeak, such as "the external rotator fastener to the combustion liquid basin was not properly engaged."

Yea i can just see some hicktown, know everything, hillbilly mechanic saying that.
 
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oh, buck, if your check engine light has been on for 2 1/2 years, i highly doubt that the gas cap is the culprit. again, if you had no substantial problem with the car during that time, it's probably nothing. the light has likely been turned on due to a "problem" in your emissions system. that's just a guess, though.
 
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